Surf Comes First

(Santa Catalina, Panama)

About leaving on Monday…. we didn’t.

Greg went out for one last early morning surf and as the minutes turned into hours, and I came to the end of the preparing to depart tasks, I began to contemplate three possibilities for the ever-lengthening surf session. One, Gregory’s hurt himself and is currently en route to some local medical facility. Probable, but highly unlikely. Remember, don’t worry about worrying about Greg. Two, the large swell claimed the dinghy capsizing it and there is currently a reconnaissance team trying to bring poor Marie back to life. Once again, a probable explanation for the extended surf time, but Greg’s adoration for his dinghy makes it slightly unbelievable. Three, the most conceivable and later determined true cause for our missed departure time, the swell was THAT good. Leaving just wasn’t an option.

No sweat of Oceanna’s back. She had a swing day in her road to Stephen and Nicole’s wedding schedule. Buffer day spent.

To continue in my counting ways here today, two events topped off today’s Grade A surfing. One, there was a professional photographer snapping shots from a panga at the edge of the wave meaning there’s finally photographic evidence of all the surf in Santa Catalina! Sergio was commissioned by a couple visiting surfers for the morning and since he was already out there captured action frames of everyone. Therefore, the in-wave shots we finally have to show are purchased from Sergio. (To check out Sergio’s online site click here.) The second event is more a show of karmic balance than a cherry on top of a great day. Regardless of his entirely spent arms, Gregory set out for the evening session to get one last shred in at Santa Catalina before we really did have to leave. An hour or two later he returned home with a huge hole in his board and a blown open heel. La Punta’s way of saying, “You’ve got some of the best of me, but I will always have the last laugh.”








Nothing like getting dropped in by a extreme lady on a surf-ski. She is cutting hard to get out, problem is buddy paddling straight into the action screaming like a madman.


Notice the surf-ski in the lip and Greg getting demolished by the foam ball.


This smile is worth a missed departure.


  1. WOW! I am infinitely impressed Greg!

  2. Miek Loch · · Reply

    Nice photos……Greg you da man!! Mick

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: